I’ve now stayed at remote mountain Eigiau Cottage more than thirty times, yet it still excites me every visit. There’s something about being off-grid that feels quietly adventurous. I had booked the stay months earlier, hoping for snow, and my wish was granted when a small flurry began drifting across the hills of Snowdonia (Eryri) in North Wales.
I didn’t start pedaling my fully loaded Salsa Mukluk until late afternoon, which meant the latter half of the ride would unfold in the darkness of this February evening. The approach began with a brutally steep tarmac climb from the valley below. I’d parked my van lower than usual, not fancying the thought of getting stuck on the icy track forecast for the morning.
The bike felt surprisingly lively on the ascent, helped by the fact I was only carrying my sleeping bag, some food, and a generous supply of beer and wine. With no wind to contend with, the ride was pleasantly calm. Puddles had gathered in places, but getting wet didn’t bother me — I knew I’d soon be warm once I reached the cottage and got the fire going.
There’s something deeply calming about riding through a snowy landscape in the dark. As I drew closer, my Exposure Maxx D light caught the glowing eyes of native sheep and a few wild ponies standing silently on the hillside.
Once inside, it was simply a matter of lighting the fire first, then cracking open a beer. Snow showers drifted through the evening while I settled in, eventually tucking into some excellent Welsh lamb chops with all the trimmings, warm and content as the weather closed in outside.
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